tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33448745863689853212024-02-18T19:45:51.582-08:00Unplugged WoodworkingUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger35125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3344874586368985321.post-44496135725907597052019-11-03T11:26:00.001-08:002019-11-03T11:26:33.201-08:00Chinese domestic furniture - second attemptAfter spending a couple of day making corner/chow feet, I decided to try something a bit more involved... cabriole legs for a tripod stand (plates 137 and 138 of the book).<br />
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I started by copying the leg pattern, gluing the copy on thin plywood and cutting off the templates. The legs of the tripod are cut differently on each axis, unlike regular cabriole legs. This means 2 templates.<br />
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I just happened to have two off-cuts of ash that were in just the right dimensions to make 2 legs per off-cut. If the off-cuts had been a tiny bit thicker, I would even have managed 4 legs per off-cut.<br />
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As the shape is a bit more involved than the chow feet, I really had to reattach all the cut parts before sawing the other axis.<br />
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A whole lotta rasping, filing and sanding later... one Chinese cabriole leg in ash! Pencil for scale :)<br />
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<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sa5GF_VNjEc/Xb8cM9g56UI/AAAAAAAAkIo/ftzrZh-_UfoFE8NJo1XHAfJYFP_eIP74ACK8BGAsYHg/s0/2019-11-03.jpg" /><br />
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After some more rasping, filing and sanding, I decided to stain the leg mahogany and to give it a good finish (2 coats BLO, 2 coats shellac, wax and buff)<br />
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<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pA-vstReklk/Xb8mrtZtBYI/AAAAAAAAkJs/chISNa_K9B8l5wr12nQHvskn_qjsAKsygCK8BGAsYHg/s0/2019-11-03.jpg" /><br />
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<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fiPLrxkm-oQ/Xb8msYC_PUI/AAAAAAAAkJ0/Y2qmEU9wIYA9TAqVWKCdYqsD8L5vBxqkQCK8BGAsYHg/s0/2019-11-03.jpg" />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3344874586368985321.post-4528120678674189622019-10-31T14:26:00.003-07:002019-10-31T14:33:53.552-07:00Chinese domestic furniture - first attemptEarlier this week, I purchased a reprint of Gustav Ecke 1944 book on Chinese domestic furniture. I received the book yesterday and quickly decided to try making a scale model of the first couch table in the book.<br />
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The first step is to make a template for the leg and cut it out of a block of soft wood.<br />
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<img height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KqyWHiHTh64/Xbsj_b4ZauI/AAAAAAAAkEI/lzkR_OApykYSqOuUVnXQeFBE4O0OLgYUQCK8BGAsYHg/s400/2019-10-31.jpg" width="400" /><br />
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Then the fun begins... cutting the bridal joints that will hold the table skirt. Then cutting the half-miters.<br />
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<img height="400" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E6ft5-1aZEI/XbtMaUmlFuI/AAAAAAAAkF0/jzWfgyXky_0Vz0fdFuz8MpiOUQ5Y0CbGwCK8BGAsYHg/s400/2019-10-31.jpg" width="300" /><br />
<img height="400" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o-uTYnuXYGs/XbtMazRGDHI/AAAAAAAAkF4/FAaR8NWF8nUO24eQLg97uksE9jgVlo-wACK8BGAsYHg/s400/2019-10-31.jpg" width="300" /><br />
<img height="400" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JLXqgzOEVa0/XbtMbmUfhDI/AAAAAAAAkGA/-vDNBjU96dIRTY23JFOyOs6McT7ZdGQHQCK8BGAsYHg/s400/2019-10-31.jpg" width="300" /><br />
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Lessons learned from this attempt:<br />
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-cut the half-mitered bridal joints in the square<br />
-do not connect them, leave all meat in the corner<br />
-use a narrower blade on the bandsaw so there's less cleanup required<br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3344874586368985321.post-79642624855534140262019-05-23T14:47:00.001-07:002019-05-23T14:47:59.667-07:00Test build of 'the other Roubo folding book stand'<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Last year, Lost Art Press published measured drawings for the other Roubo book stand scaled to hold their Deluxe edition of "Roubo on Furniture". I grabbed a pdf of the measured drawings and set to make a test build in soft wood before milling some hard wood for the real build.</div>
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I do not own the Deluxe edition, but I am lucky enough to have the 1977 limited reprint in full size.<br />
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I quickly ripped some fir to verify that the book stand would accommodate the 1977 edition. So far, so good.<br />
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I hadn't cut bridal joints in ages, so they are far from perfect.<br />
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Chopping mortises in fir can be fun as the wood is way too soft and crushes easily<br />
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Test fit of the book on the assembled top part<br />
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Making the support, in pine I believe<br />
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The top part is now complete<br />
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Making the bottom part is where it gets fun, as it needs a way to hold the top support in position</div>
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The part is roughly shaped, then pared down to the line.<br />
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Chopping the recesses that will hold the toggle in position<br />
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Building the bottom frame<br />
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All the recesses are chiseled. Here's what I did wrong... I started chopping them from the top but I should have started by the bottom one and made my way up. Chopping was unnecessary in this soft wood... paring down diagonally gave better results and the pared down recesses ended up being the exact dimensions from the drawing.<br />
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What I got wrong, part deux, I somehow made the part too long, so I had to shorten it from the bottom.<br />
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Fitting the hinges between the top and bottom. The Stanley 271 is so useful for those small mortises.<br />
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Finally, adding the two shelves that will support the bottom of the book... I decided to stick a molding on those.<br />
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The test build is finished and holds the limited edition without any problem!<br />
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The bridal joints at the end of the build were of a better quality than those at the start!<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3344874586368985321.post-82578835844461105422019-05-23T14:19:00.001-07:002019-05-23T14:19:15.951-07:00Finishing projects years after starting themA few years back, I found an old violin in a sorry state and simply used it as decoration in the living room. Then in Spring 2017 I decided to bring it back to life...<br />
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The violin is a 19th century German copy of a Nicolaus Amatus violin that had a rough life. They're supposed to be good student violins.<br />
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Using a thin scraper, I popped the top open and started inspecting the extent of the damage. Three corner blocks were missing, so I started making new ones from straight grain fir I had stashed away.<br />
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Cut close to fit<br />
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The usual 'Nicolaus Amatus fecit in Cremona 184?' label from the 19th century copies made in Markneukirchen or Mittenwald.<br />
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It also had this hand-written note inside, stating that it had been repaired in 1904. I guess that's when the label got partially rewritten by hand.<br />
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The whole thing was covered in dust, and the nut was missing.<br />
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The top was in 4 parts<br />
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Starting to glue the top back together, adding patches of thin straight-grained fir.<br />
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Getting the corner blocks closer to the correct size<br />
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Using a round plane upside-down in the vise helped shaping the corner blocks</div>
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Shaving the patches down with a very sharp chisel.<br />
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It looks like it's put back correctly.<br />
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A few steps later, the top is back in one piece, on the right you can see the fingerboard<br />
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Fitting and gluing the third corner block<br />
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Clamping the top back on, I know those aren't the correct clamps for the task but I didn't use any pressure.<br />
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The fingerboard glued back in place... notice my very traditional hot glue pot on the right. For the entire project, I have used a mix of hide glue and bone glue.<br />
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And there it is, almost done. A couple coats of boiled linseed oil followed by a couple coats of shellac and it's looking nicer. I've ordered the missing parts and I'll finish the violin when they get here...<br />
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I received the parts a few days later... 2017 ended, 2018 ended, ...<br />
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Fast forward to this morning where I suddenly decided to finish it. I fitted the bridge, strung the violin, added rosin to the bow and tried it. Notice I didn't say 'set the sound post' because I wasn't able to do it yet. It pops out of the setter when I try to wedge it in position.<br />
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A new custom nut in rosewood, new strings, fine tuners on the tail piece...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguGnSDfXTXZxPk_KoP3RlI1FmmN6pYPEcXHfpZfQQEyxhJb4gzHKonVREfqNBqwaCStXQywqT28upFfURLofBOeYA2xe-hCjRqn59DNK4fMwcIVobN-r-W0xyxGN-dDHonVEw21VFf_LY4/s1600/IMG_3667.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1109" data-original-width="1600" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguGnSDfXTXZxPk_KoP3RlI1FmmN6pYPEcXHfpZfQQEyxhJb4gzHKonVREfqNBqwaCStXQywqT28upFfURLofBOeYA2xe-hCjRqn59DNK4fMwcIVobN-r-W0xyxGN-dDHonVEw21VFf_LY4/s320/IMG_3667.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Surprisingly, it plays and sounds rather nice. Setting the sound post would improve the sound and especially the volume. So far, it is staying tuned and I was able to play a basic scale on it. Next... twinkle twinkle little star. Did I mention it is actually the first time I pick up a bow and play the violin?Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3344874586368985321.post-5995938487280301652019-05-14T02:47:00.002-07:002019-05-14T02:47:58.229-07:00Turning file handles<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
After sharpening the carcasse saw, I decided to make a different file handle that was slightly longer.</div>
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I started with a quick drawing on a bit of plywood. I'd then use the plywood as a template, if I ever decided to make more handles based on that pattern.</div>
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Compared to the handle I turned before<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvTEQL_FjsGE3DsmHajdRHqMizEfGQSTWCnRzzybQZU9RrjlfAqpUiiXvUd1ctKDcjNwMkztI5FaFcjcfgljIbg0LebV4n__ReqQGv6sg2mkhUV3fpVf7Sk3jdqOw33QqBMI6k1991I1-V/s1600/IMG_2988.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvTEQL_FjsGE3DsmHajdRHqMizEfGQSTWCnRzzybQZU9RrjlfAqpUiiXvUd1ctKDcjNwMkztI5FaFcjcfgljIbg0LebV4n__ReqQGv6sg2mkhUV3fpVf7Sk3jdqOw33QqBMI6k1991I1-V/s320/IMG_2988.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div>
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Developed so I can take direct measurements with calipers at key points<br />
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Once again, an off-cut of cherry<br />
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Mounted on the lathe, turned into a cylinder and marked.<br />
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I used the parting gouge and the calipers to reach the correct dimensions in the key spots. I used a carbide gouge to connect the parts together... I reversed the lathe rotation and sanded the handle to 400 grit before building on the finish (BLO, BLO, shellac, 600 grit, shellac, 600 grit, carnauba, buff).<br />
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Here's the handle off the lathe, before the final steps (cut off, ferrule, drill tang hole).<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3344874586368985321.post-74524602650771320492019-05-14T02:40:00.001-07:002019-05-14T02:40:03.742-07:00Drabble and Sanderson backsaw renovation<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
A while back, I bought an old Drabble and Sanderson back saw. It was quite dirty but should clean up to a very good saw, based on other saws from the same maker already in my saw till. As the saw plate wasn't very deep, I decided to joint the teeth and reconfigure it as a 14 ppi carcasse saw.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLXxPWoMBAQwvAXUY8qsVYjwaqrgot57Zt6Lif0JT2Kpd-UQoaXHh4riUi7Rx6O6mxpsxzBwu9qdmmYCS1FZoiXEW_oKfv505atxv3kwQlqqS69aQK4Gmv0RRYRWK1SaRl6j3euRovdVc6/s1600/IMG_2882.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLXxPWoMBAQwvAXUY8qsVYjwaqrgot57Zt6Lif0JT2Kpd-UQoaXHh4riUi7Rx6O6mxpsxzBwu9qdmmYCS1FZoiXEW_oKfv505atxv3kwQlqqS69aQK4Gmv0RRYRWK1SaRl6j3euRovdVc6/s320/IMG_2882.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div>
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The first step was making a split nut tool as I seem to have lost my previous shop-made one. I used a cheap spade bit for that... a quick trip to a bench grinder and a few minutes with a file later, I had a correctly sized tool for the task.<br />
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The saw fully taken apart<br />
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Let's start by fully removing the old teeth and cleaning the plate.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggUdze83ht_bVZrSBxeqbPdHMRfF3adhsgHj5KCMud6DJCgi3aW3wWaUeM7k2GMjJMnIl9yA52ZNicVvVsSMe4dqT3hwMYCmZzZvmaf64Auig_EwHEjbqoxAGfBkEADMrtRwNriqvwDjMc/s1600/IMG_2887.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggUdze83ht_bVZrSBxeqbPdHMRfF3adhsgHj5KCMud6DJCgi3aW3wWaUeM7k2GMjJMnIl9yA52ZNicVvVsSMe4dqT3hwMYCmZzZvmaf64Auig_EwHEjbqoxAGfBkEADMrtRwNriqvwDjMc/s320/IMG_2887.HEIC" width="320" /></a></div>
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I ordered a pack of proper saw files from Dictum as I suddenly realized I didn't have files fine enough for 14 ppi. While waiting for the files to be delivered, I pre-cut the teeth spacing with a hack saw... in the end, that was quite a waste of time and energy as it didn't improve the results nor saved any work.<br />
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Teeth being cut in... astute readers will now notice that I forgot to order something with the files.<br />
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After getting massive blisters on my right thumb from the sharp tang on the file, I realized that a file handle would be neat... so I quickly turned one from some leftover cherry.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUN8nywO3TCcoxwqevoLOc3zLmMCsFfYjM-hWfsI-gccuH6vPKxmkujs0khN8dj14tbBbaLj4eAcb8dwX9YOGjCyGQ7BJukHmSMKxzFRZwdXplksqNvKGCNL4BLbNapA4ohyHaTQsiKiRm/s1600/IMG_2975.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br class="Apple-interchange-newline" /><img border="0" data-original-height="1109" data-original-width="1600" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUN8nywO3TCcoxwqevoLOc3zLmMCsFfYjM-hWfsI-gccuH6vPKxmkujs0khN8dj14tbBbaLj4eAcb8dwX9YOGjCyGQ7BJukHmSMKxzFRZwdXplksqNvKGCNL4BLbNapA4ohyHaTQsiKiRm/s320/IMG_2975.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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It was a marked improvement and I quickly finished sharpening the saw. Here's the reassembled saw, somehow I forgot to take pictures of the extra steps I had to go through (straightening the brass screws, cutting new threads on the screws, drilling slightly larger holes in the plate, ...). The saw plate got a generous coating with carnauba wax and was buffed. The handle was cleaned, received two coats of BLO and buffed with a BLO/carnauba mix.<br />
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The saw was drifting to the left, so I quickly stoned the left side of the plate until it cut plumb. The saw is now seeing daily use. </div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3344874586368985321.post-23418720921325718432019-04-17T06:26:00.000-07:002019-04-17T06:26:29.660-07:00Custom canvas tool rollLast year I bought a set of English plough irons that happened to come in an old tool roll. As it was busted, I thought about making a new roll for the irons.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYoWhjoIPyoyKNdO-Z5nwicZ2t3XFTm-yySiA9WF_WjMj6YqnHWssZ6Pf_Bw3KJg1lGSRxM0h5tfOAY-_JxIXapxilPrKUZnRDH5BqSUJdLYi5W08WoffPo7eGmd8AzSsajaIPfZvAqmCq/s1600/IMG_2163.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYoWhjoIPyoyKNdO-Z5nwicZ2t3XFTm-yySiA9WF_WjMj6YqnHWssZ6Pf_Bw3KJg1lGSRxM0h5tfOAY-_JxIXapxilPrKUZnRDH5BqSUJdLYi5W08WoffPo7eGmd8AzSsajaIPfZvAqmCq/s320/IMG_2163.HEIC" width="320" /></a></div>
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A quick cleanup with 400 grit sandpaper and mineral spirits to clean the irons.</div>
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A high-level, not proportional, plan of how the roll will be made. The entire thing will be made from 2 layers of antique canvas my wife stashed away ages ago. The roll proper will be 25cm by 25cm, with a 14cm flap covering the tangs and a 7cm side flap.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZeJJW4IbITtHcBfyK3XezFCzCT0NOMqEaGH3Ia8HI6P2F0ZBTVRoPEsejagNjtcL3cJTkg0zMMZbYsqPpl5kSdynCfx30E3-HXPutLH5652o5UH-zTHbeR8JqGFWkCVweUt-43kmJ1BE6/s1600/IMG_3087.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZeJJW4IbITtHcBfyK3XezFCzCT0NOMqEaGH3Ia8HI6P2F0ZBTVRoPEsejagNjtcL3cJTkg0zMMZbYsqPpl5kSdynCfx30E3-HXPutLH5652o5UH-zTHbeR8JqGFWkCVweUt-43kmJ1BE6/s320/IMG_3087.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div>
The fun begins... cutting the fabric panels to size. As it's a very large roll of fabric, I was able to cut the components as continuous panels. The main body and tang flap became an 80cm by 27cm panel (24+14+2 times two), the side flap became a 16cm by 27cm panel and the tool holder became a 30cm by 27cm panel)<br />
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Main body and side flap cut to size (I actually made the side flap too small and redid it)<br />
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Side flap with seams penciled in<br />
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The tool packet panel with 8 equal pockets... geometry is your friend. There was a mistake here too and I should have allowed some space on the sides as the fabric is quite thick<br />
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Tool pocket stitched to the main body<br />
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Let's dry test the fit of a plough iron<br />
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The new side flap, at the correct size.<br />
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The side flap stitched to the main body<br />
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The closure mechanism in place, can you spot the error? Now it's time to stitch the seam all the way around, leaving a 10cm opening to turn the tool roll inside out.<br />
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Tool roll turned out, pressed and fully loaded.<br />
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Tool roll almost finished... the next part of the project is to treat the outside of the tool roll to make it water proof. A similar process to Filson's famous "tin cloth". This will come in a follow-up post.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3344874586368985321.post-34314332274499039612018-08-22T12:31:00.001-07:002018-08-22T12:31:22.280-07:00Christmas in August?Today a couple of heavy parcels were waiting on my desk in the office :)<br />
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The first parcel is a mixed set of plough irons from good british manufacturers I bought on ebay.co.uk for pocket change... it contains a few J Howarth, Sorby, Marples, Varvil. J Howarth is quickly becoming a favourite tool maker of mine. I now have 2 infill planes (a smoothing plane and a shoulder plane) with his irons and they are really nice to use. The plough iron set has duplicates (1,2,9) and is missing a #6. Fortunately I had a #6 from IL&S that came with a wooden plough I bought years ago. I got lucky and the entire set does fit in one of the two wooden ploughs I bought in Germany years ago. The tool roll is quite tired, but it will serve as a pattern to make its replacement. I've ordered a 1m x 1m60 length of heavy canvas for that purpose.<br />
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I will sharpen them shortly on my Scheppach Tiger 3000 VS (a cheap German clone of Tormek I bought a couple of months back). I will first need to make a jig to ensure that the business end is square to the wheel surface as the tangs are tapering on both axis. This means I can't rely on the built-in square of the tool holder.</div>
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The next parcel is a present from my friend Brian at Toolerable. It was a heavy parcel, just shy of 10 pounds.</div>
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I had to wait until I got home at the end of the day to have a better look at the inside of the parcel:<br />
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It's a set of German-engineered dowel plates, covering from 3mm to 20mm. This is awesome as I was looking at crafting my own for round tenons. I've already tested it by knocking in a bit of 8mm dowel I bought from a big box shop and it quickly adjusted it to true 8mm diameter. I will need to try it further with various bits of straight-grain wood. Here's a <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z92fnI6cPbE" target="_blank">video of Elia Bizzarri</a> showing how dowel plates are used for tenon work.<br />
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Thanks a million Brian! They'll be put to good use!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3344874586368985321.post-91153207069907342752018-07-01T06:11:00.000-07:002018-07-01T06:11:02.828-07:00Even more toolsThis morning we did a quick check of a small flea market a few minutes from the house. It's not a huge flea market, but I always seem to find hand planes there. Today was no exception, I ended up spending 3€ on a pair of planes: a round plane and a panel-raising plane.<br />
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Here they are, as found.<br />
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5 minutes on the stones brought back the round iron to working sharpness (400 - 1000 - 4000 - 8000, CrO strop).<br />
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I then cleaned up and oiled the plane body, buffed it and took it for a test drive.<br />
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Cleaning up the panel-raising plane was pretty much the same work... clean up the contact point between the iron and the chip breaker, flatten the back and bring the bevel up to 8000 grits on the stone, followed up with a quick trip to a CrO strop.</div>
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I still need to make a replacement nicker and a replacement wedge for the nicker. I have seen two design variations so far... the nicker perpendicular to the planing direction and the nicker parallel to the planing direction. Interestingly enough, the channel for the nicker seems to have been done with a drill as two sides are parallel and the other two sides are rounded. This probably means that the nicker was a later addition to the plane.<br />
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This is now my second large panel-raising plane, both with a flat profile but a different slope angle.<br />
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The left one has a Ward iron, the hardest plane iron I own so far, skewed with a sharp angled arris on the work side. The right one is the new one<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3344874586368985321.post-76856321482534359142018-06-12T12:08:00.000-07:002018-06-12T12:08:33.827-07:00Quick projectsOn a whim, I have decided to redo the top of the Dutch tool chest. For the last few years, it had an ill-fitting bit of plywood attached with plain hinges. I have purchased different hinges and made a new breadboard panel.<br />
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I will attach it in the next few days.</div>
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For a larger project, I needed something that's been missing from my tool kit for some time already... a panel gauge. I raided the basement stash of old oak and started milling. I forgot to take pictures of the early stages of the project. I also conveniently had some brass left over from a project that had been postponed :)</div>
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Headstock roughly milled with a rabbet (21mmx20mm) for the brass and the arm mortise, boom arm (80cm, roughly 31 1/2 in) roughly milled.</div>
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I reduced the height of the headstock and carefully planed the arm to slide freely in its mortise. Last picture before I start drilling and countersinking for brass screws.<br />
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The head was drilled and tapped for a M8 bolt... I pre-drilled a 6mm hole then slowly tapped it. The hole was drilled in the middle of the beefier section.<br />
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Next time, I will make a 7mmx2.5mm groove in the arm to receive a strip of brass... that should help with locking without damaging the arm.<br />
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Still left to be decided:<br />
-keep the headstock flat and square or asymmetrical curve<br />
-point, knife or both?Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3344874586368985321.post-31532041001729428802018-06-04T12:30:00.002-07:002018-06-04T12:49:09.024-07:00More tools!Last week I won a nice Record #50 on ebay.co.uk, for pocket change. It's almost complete... only missing the long posts (I have spare ones from a Stanley #50 and a Stanley #45) and the beading stop. I'm not sure I'd use the beading stop.<br />
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The seller threw in an English Stanley #271 in very nice condition.</div>
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I spent a few minutes cleaning up the bevel and it was taking nice shavings across the grain.</div>
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This weekend I also visited a flea market in the next village/suburb and made the deal of the century. Two antique French holdfasts for 1 euro each. I went there hoping, against all odds, that there would be a froe or a #113... but no such luck.</div>
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We also bought a few chicks from a friend living in that village/suburb and he should have some Muscovy ducklings for us next weekend. I'm currently building the frame for a chicken coop, hoping to fence/clad it by the weekend.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3344874586368985321.post-7743698073711368422018-06-01T13:00:00.001-07:002018-06-01T13:00:59.920-07:00Making dog bone chest liftsOn a whim, I have decided to make dog bone chest lifts for the rabbet and screws ATC I started building before moving. The chest itself is a mix between the traditional ATC and the "in two days" ATC. Rabbet and nails has been used traditionally for tool chests, but I didn't have any proper nails so I settled for screws instead. Anyways, I digress :)<br />
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Start with two blocks of oak roughly 30mmx60mmx300mm. Mark out the dog bone shape by tracing shoulders 75mm from the ends, and 15mm from the sides. Saw along the lines.<br />
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Mount on the lathe and start turning the handle. I actually started by turning the ends of the bones where they meet the shoulders, then used the spindle roughing gouge to get a nice round handle.<br />
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Trace a diagonal from the inside corner of the shoulders to the outside corner of the waste. Use dividers to draw a pleasing ogee. Saw as close to the ogee as you dare, then clean up with rasps and files.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNbs8nbhcu7l17FS9WBX-EXCACoReQcrNQuDo2m7wb3rUVvUwwwGlOPfhXK_72cGGgAepmR9n4U6oPij2x7vHgOfEAsZbMqppBewfYFgzBjIcclKYwz7UdLXVDmnxJ7TXZTVkd13z-bIv5/s1600/IMG_1954.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNbs8nbhcu7l17FS9WBX-EXCACoReQcrNQuDo2m7wb3rUVvUwwwGlOPfhXK_72cGGgAepmR9n4U6oPij2x7vHgOfEAsZbMqppBewfYFgzBjIcclKYwz7UdLXVDmnxJ7TXZTVkd13z-bIv5/s320/IMG_1954.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
First chest lift done.<br />
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Two coats of BLO and one coat of shellac... both chest lifts done!<br />
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4Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3344874586368985321.post-17665317523928172522018-05-30T11:04:00.002-07:002018-05-30T11:04:19.909-07:00Cleaning up the pinching rodsAll that was left to do on the pinching rods was to deburr the metal collars, find a way to hold the fixed part of the collars and bevel the ends of the sticks.<br />
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Deburring was done with a few passes on a belt sander, I drilled a 3mm hole through one side of each collar until it just started hitting the wood, drove a nail through the hole and across the fixed end of the stick. This doesn't move anymore.<br />
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A few seconds of chiseling later, the pinching rods were finished.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-BPnIoymA7Si0N8_HE3QxvPuuV9OfaEEl5aUctk0sU0C2P8k7ozmIFn7BTttHxn_4E7XV6a29yiJeCYPa6-iEFgdWAbEG4B92Nm0cipOo3Kaze_f2Q0y_ShPnD5HanWP41hPMFQbmbUHY/s1600/IMG_1950.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-BPnIoymA7Si0N8_HE3QxvPuuV9OfaEEl5aUctk0sU0C2P8k7ozmIFn7BTttHxn_4E7XV6a29yiJeCYPa6-iEFgdWAbEG4B92Nm0cipOo3Kaze_f2Q0y_ShPnD5HanWP41hPMFQbmbUHY/s320/IMG_1950.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I'll make pinch rods using hardwood next, as this one is just a bit too short for the ATC :)Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3344874586368985321.post-30760899593007136052018-05-29T22:41:00.000-07:002018-05-29T22:41:08.776-07:00Making pinch rodsStart with an appropriate section of mild steel square tubing, I have bought a 1 meter long square tube with an outside dimension of 20mm and a wall thickness of about 1.3mm. I also got a small bag of 20mm M8 bolts.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht55K-qdoHHsz9d9RmX7S3thDJxAJrJzxaYKi9Eg8IL2fChtHnEfnk07WR2CZy3aBOh-k1FyCIpjx8i6yEA5OzCxvifpZkyPTIzu4mT2x_JlrdwBHdM7uwn0xxh18_I_xaGyf6ORo51bMu/s1600/IMG_1944.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht55K-qdoHHsz9d9RmX7S3thDJxAJrJzxaYKi9Eg8IL2fChtHnEfnk07WR2CZy3aBOh-k1FyCIpjx8i6yEA5OzCxvifpZkyPTIzu4mT2x_JlrdwBHdM7uwn0xxh18_I_xaGyf6ORo51bMu/s320/IMG_1944.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Cut two 1" pieces off the tube with a hacksaw and drill a hole of the correct size for the bolt you have (6.5 or 6.8 work for M8). Tap that hole.</div>
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Let's check that the bolt fits, it does...</div>
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Now find a piece of wood with straight grain and plane it until it's about 20mm by 20mm. Resaw it and check the fit in the metal parts.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-v8OqBuXooYAQNWHtrQgn7XPZ3JWCvc7vZEXsO5wWrkz373ld-7CGeeE0b-uEThEjm6-KT60_YmMq7uIPmInZjSoY1xbScAU99Nd3fQFCGtfIWwXHzagKaHHKB1yxYC6JX3Q2i8FpLHID/s1600/IMG_1947.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-v8OqBuXooYAQNWHtrQgn7XPZ3JWCvc7vZEXsO5wWrkz373ld-7CGeeE0b-uEThEjm6-KT60_YmMq7uIPmInZjSoY1xbScAU99Nd3fQFCGtfIWwXHzagKaHHKB1yxYC6JX3Q2i8FpLHID/s320/IMG_1947.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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The stick was originally longer, but it snapped at a knot when I cleaned up the saw marks.<br />
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Here's the almost finished pinch rod... all in, less than 30 minutes work. I still need to taper the sliding ends.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3344874586368985321.post-59951610048021070172018-05-27T07:28:00.001-07:002018-05-27T07:28:23.522-07:00Quick turning projectAs Brian from Toolerable was having fun making chisel handles, I decided to quickly make a London-pattern chisel using some leftover quarter-sawn oak. It won't be the most solid handle in the world, but I will probably use it for a paring chisel.<br />
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I started by ripping a long enough square section from some leftover oak, planed it perfectly square and marked the center on the ends. I then picked my octagon marking gauge and laid out the lines. Years back, I had made a template/pattern for the London chisel so I used it to mark the transitions.<br />
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Unfortunately, I didn't think about taking pictures until it was already mounted on the lathe. The pictures start with the extremities getting roughed out<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix_A2RRrR3-v48AZ4vbTfhtPrMh8PDDvjudCFBeGbbvjotRebBSji3hyphenhyphenkxJppn18Ryw4Fm6txEWJaa1Ims_BJ9kGfmDMa1ZTk_Zv4AaO1cAkLJ8B9BAba3mSg3r8EH52tyvc_LnX9ppTD-/s1600/IMG_1934.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix_A2RRrR3-v48AZ4vbTfhtPrMh8PDDvjudCFBeGbbvjotRebBSji3hyphenhyphenkxJppn18Ryw4Fm6txEWJaa1Ims_BJ9kGfmDMa1ZTk_Zv4AaO1cAkLJ8B9BAba3mSg3r8EH52tyvc_LnX9ppTD-/s320/IMG_1934.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
A couple minutes later, the turned parts are done... I just need to plane the octagonal part and add the finish. Here's the handle on top of its template.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfYQpyVvKlAmwXRI-c5gIq3xKPmPDXScTIzx-uhWJ3susVCof1oBHQG-JiLNJuU-v-ZnultsDsy1qIO7_aWoIZwCAQZB5IwRBPeHICYfuqeceO1Rl_rqyAgPXEsg2tFwKPeytpCP5fVErM/s1600/IMG_1935.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfYQpyVvKlAmwXRI-c5gIq3xKPmPDXScTIzx-uhWJ3susVCof1oBHQG-JiLNJuU-v-ZnultsDsy1qIO7_aWoIZwCAQZB5IwRBPeHICYfuqeceO1Rl_rqyAgPXEsg2tFwKPeytpCP5fVErM/s320/IMG_1935.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Before adding the finish, I switch the late to spin backwards and sand the turned parts to 600 grit. My usual finish for turned items is 2 coats of BLO, 2 coats of shellac and one coat of beeswax paste. Being lazy and in a hurry, I apply the finish on the lathe... it takes seconds and dries in seconds.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnC1-neSVnUv3o1LxXpzmHJ-AOJXLoI1uYAgLpkt4ghH38bksaRlgVtkqGRjVJex5h8St_wH97VyskdzPdt-_K7aLpGbEY6mEJX9t6TB1udgYSlahuNPzlQef6P-xP4P5hVL5emtZUV1O3/s1600/IMG_1936.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnC1-neSVnUv3o1LxXpzmHJ-AOJXLoI1uYAgLpkt4ghH38bksaRlgVtkqGRjVJex5h8St_wH97VyskdzPdt-_K7aLpGbEY6mEJX9t6TB1udgYSlahuNPzlQef6P-xP4P5hVL5emtZUV1O3/s320/IMG_1936.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
I cut the handle from its spindle with a saw and clean-up the ends with a sharp chisel before adding the same finish on the butt of the handle. The finished item on top of its pattern:<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3344874586368985321.post-12220006172380999422018-05-27T07:15:00.001-07:002018-05-27T07:15:03.196-07:00Building a warping frame - part 3<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Let's check we didn't mess anything :)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQyjw_eMFQ-LWMaMgMJ-kmIkmTEZ3tbsLhJODRG7GQjtbqsAuTBBDRXPZyXyQ7Eb4zoujmGELaiJuDyE3R_xYtlLcBN2nR7NtrZRFAqdRA81h67MW4hawa625ebbZsziMWMSJPFrwTNTUR/s1600/IMG_1921.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQyjw_eMFQ-LWMaMgMJ-kmIkmTEZ3tbsLhJODRG7GQjtbqsAuTBBDRXPZyXyQ7Eb4zoujmGELaiJuDyE3R_xYtlLcBN2nR7NtrZRFAqdRA81h67MW4hawa625ebbZsziMWMSJPFrwTNTUR/s320/IMG_1921.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Dry fit test for a row of dowels<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjivyr7TZYuNtLeiTd0J3KvcB6-zkeNkUTv7-qnhectPg8l3tzJY7gAls3BJyhHlA6n7RsZhxxi8jSdf3x1L_Bh6j26oQDMIGloCcojUE8X_4EguWQTLl8N1amguB-6E-MnmJQX4jG6SbmH/s1600/IMG_1924.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjivyr7TZYuNtLeiTd0J3KvcB6-zkeNkUTv7-qnhectPg8l3tzJY7gAls3BJyhHlA6n7RsZhxxi8jSdf3x1L_Bh6j26oQDMIGloCcojUE8X_4EguWQTLl8N1amguB-6E-MnmJQX4jG6SbmH/s320/IMG_1924.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Assembly time, let's start by glueing the dowels<br />
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Just a smidge of glue spread around the bottom of the dowel, then twist/hammer it into place until it bottoms out.<br />
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One long side done<br />
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The second long side done<br />
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BLO on the short sides, drying off<br />
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A long side with BLO freshly applied<br />
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Apply glue to the half laps, check for square and clamp... wash, rinse, repeat until the 4 corners are done. Check once more for square to be on the safe side<br />
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Let it dry fully before applying the next coats of finish... I'll add another coat of BLO and follow it up with shellac.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3344874586368985321.post-41240741051719881672018-05-25T02:59:00.001-07:002018-05-25T02:59:37.859-07:00Building a warping frame - part twoI used the carcasse saw and a stop block in the miter block to cut the shoulders of the lap joints and free-handed the cheek. I used a router plane to clean up the cheeks when necessary, using another piece for support.<br />
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And the joints on all pieces were ready in short order.<br />
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Somehow I had messed up my calculations for the short sides and the dowel holes would have interfered with the lap joints. I made new marks 8 inches on center and that was that.<br />
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14 holes left to drill before the next post :)Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3344874586368985321.post-6536968139514007192018-05-23T13:02:00.000-07:002018-05-23T23:30:34.702-07:00Building a warping frame with hand toolsWanting to kill several birds with one stone, I decided to build a proper warping frame. I was pretty sure I had enough hardwood left and would only need to buy the round stock. It turns out I was mostly right.<br />
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<h4>
Dimensions and cut list of sorts:</h4>
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two 1" x 3" x 6' boards, cut into 38" and 34" lengths<br />
1 1"x10ft hardwood rod, cut into 20 6" dowels<br />
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<h4>
General idea:</h4>
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half-lap joint the long and short sides<br />
have 6 dowels evenly spaced on the long sides (5" on center)<br />
have 4 dowels evenly spaced on the short sides (9" on center)<br />
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<h4>
Dimensioning the flat stock:</h4>
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I started with two 18x70x1820mm boards of unknown hardwood that I found in the house when I moved in. I rounded the long sides down to 960mm, and cross-cut the board which conveniently left me with short sides just short of 860mm... close enough.<br />
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<h4>
Marking the dowel locations:</h4>
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Start by finding and marking the center of the board along its greater dimension. Make a mark 2.5 inches on each side, then mark your board at 5" and 10" from those marks. Using your square, draw a line across at each of the 6 evenly spaced marks. Find the center of the two outside lines and use a straight edge to draw a line along the length.<br />
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Repeat for the short pieces, marking at 4.5" and 13.5" from the center of the board.<br />
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<h4>
Next up, the dowels:</h4>
So it turns out the store didn't have 1" round stock... I could buy either 22mm or 28mm. As I read that 1" round stock was already a bit flimsy for the application, I chose the 28mm stock which came in 2700mm length (as opposed to the 22mm which came as 2000mm length).<br />
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Use a stop block in your mitre/miter box, at the appropriate distance from your square cut. I placed my stop block at 130mm of the square cut and cut the first dowel. Spot the error:<br />
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I didn't pay attention and put the block on the wrong side of the mitre box for a push saw. Let's correct that and reset the stop block exactly at 130mm this time.<br />
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Wash, rince, repeat until you have a nice pile of 20 identical dowels.</div>
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<h4>
Drilling the dowel holes:</h4>
<div>
So... you remember I said the store didn't have 25mm round stock right? It turns out that metric forstner bits are usually sold in 5mm increments... 15, 20, 25, 30, 35 mm diameters. While I have found 28mm forstner bits online, there were none in the store and I had none in my kit. I drilled a 30mm test hole in an offcut to see if that could work with wedging, but the gap was annoying.</div>
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Luckily, I had a 28mm jennings bit for my hand brace. Of course, the shank was too big for my drill press chuck... and the bit itself was too long for the neck of my hand cranked drill press. Hand brace to the rescue!</div>
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Start by using a birdcage awl to mark the starting point for the drill, push the screw in that nice starting point and start swinging the brace :)</div>
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Halfway through, flip the board when the screw breaks through the other side.<br />
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Drill until you're through and test the fit<br />
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Let's check if we drilled plumb and square</div>
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After a small break to hone the bevels of the bit, let's start the second hole:<br />
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Way better!<br />
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Test fit, it's tight enough to hold the dowel upside down<br />
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That's it for today!</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3344874586368985321.post-16596256521123175692017-11-12T11:23:00.000-08:002017-11-12T11:23:28.734-08:00Quick projectsA couple weeks back, the good lady wife bought a roubo-style workbench that had been converted to hold bathroom sinks. She wanted the sinks and the workbench came with it... so I inherited a 3rd workbench :) Timing-wise, it is interesting because I was about to start dimensioning lumber to actually make a roubo.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In all its bathroom-conversion glory</td></tr>
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One issue is that whoever converted it did cut two chunks of the top and part of a back leg. I have started fixing the easy stuff, like reassembling the leg vise correctly.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back to its original purpose</td></tr>
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It's a bit lower than my other benches but works nicely for my wooden planes... so I'm a happy camper so far.<br />
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The planing stop and the holdfast went missing, luckily I still have a monster holdfast from another bench I'm currently not using. However, the holes are too small for it right now so I'll need to enlarge them at some point.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First time working with a planing stop</td></tr>
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While I was in the workshop, and because I cleaned up the pantry yesterday... I though about making St Roy's <a href="http://www.pbs.org/video/dovetailed-grease-pot-bmswsp/" target="_blank">dovetailed grease box</a> as I have about a pound of expired shredded suet.<br />
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While the shredded suet was melting in a double boiler, I started cutting and drilling the dovetail box from some leftover fir. As I was in the zone, I completely forgot to take in-progress pictures and only grabbed the phone once the prototype was done:<br />
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I have tested the suet on the soles of a couple of wooden planes and it makes them very slippery indeed. The next time I'm in the workshop, I'll make the dovetail key to lock the box.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3344874586368985321.post-55828387697674044942017-08-13T13:20:00.000-07:002017-08-13T13:20:32.499-07:00Working up the courage to attempt Sheraton legsNow that I am settled in the new house and workshop, I'm thinking about more complex projects. I'd love to make cabriole legs, but that would require a bandsaw... plus my wife actually doesn't like them.<br />
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This weekend, I have found out that she actually likes Sheraton legs. So I have dusted the lathe and made a couple of quick small-scale turnings to try my hand at something else than tool handles.<br />
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I have used small leftover bits of riven beech to copy the legs of two antique tables in our stock.<br />
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Now I need to find larger pieces of beech to make a full-size copy of the top one :) And also to make an indexer to scratch and carve the reeds on the tapered section.<br />
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I'm also toying with the idea of turning a foot extension for one of the tables as it is a bit low for modern chairs. I'll post pics of the attempts if I try to make it.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3344874586368985321.post-28632922096706146852017-08-09T13:16:00.001-07:002017-08-09T19:49:39.907-07:00Rebuilding old things is a lot of funIn between tool rehabilitation projects and blade honing sessions, I have found some time to actually do some woodworking in the workshop. In the last two weeks, I've rebuilt a shattered 19th century violin and some broken chairs. Both were projects that were stuck in the pipeline for the best part of 5 years.<br />
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The violin is one the numerous 19th century German or Bohemian copies of Italian classics. This one was labelled as "Nicolaus Amatus" which was disproved with a cursory look at the neck. As it was unshortened, there's no way it could be older than 19th century. Funnily enough, the 20th century fake labels often have an indication of the country of real manufacture. As this one lacked that indication, and had a luthier note from repairs in 1904, it's most certainly a 19th century piece.<br />
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Let's start rebuilding it! First the two parts around the f hole needed to be glue back together.<br />
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I made new patches from riven air-dried fir, dead straight grain.<br />
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During previous repairs, 3 of the corner blocks went missing... so I made new one from riven air-dried fir. It's really nice to work with as you can simply split it to shape instead of sawing.<br />
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A round moulding plane clamped upside down in the front vise quickly adjusts the corner blocks to fit.<br />
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Shaving down the patches with a chisel<br />
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The next day<br />
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A bit further along, the top plate is back in one piece.<br />
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The corner blocks are back in place<br />
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I know, wrong clamp type for a violin but I didn't need to add a lot of pressure<br />
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Pegs and end pin inserted, however the end pin hole was too large and off-axis<br />
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End pin hole plugged, drilled and reamed.<br />
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Only missing the bridge and the strings<br />
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It won't win any beauty contest, but at least it's back to one piece now.<br />
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So I've had this set of 4 old German chairs for a while... they're dusty, mouldy, the caning is damaged or ripped in places and some are broken. I had been planning to spend a couple of evenings fixing them but never seemed to find the time. A reddit discussion on cleaning up smelly wooden furniture made me pull one of them to take pics of the simple process I use.<br />
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Take a dirty smelly piece of furniture, this chair for example.<br />
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Make a small pad from 000 or 0000 steel wool, then dip it in a BLO/Turps mix. Quickly wipe the piece of furniture with the pad and let it rest somewhere between 5 and 15 minutes. Come back with a lint-free cloth and wipe off the excess oil. If you used enough oil, all the contaminants on top of the wood will float to the top of the oil.<br />
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Doing one half at a time really shows the progress<br />
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The mortise and tenon joint in the front left leg broke at the shoulder, so I tried a fix I saw on youtube recently... wet the broken parts with hot water, then apply hot hide glue and clamp<br />
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Clamped and left alone for the night.<br />
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The next morning, after removing the clamps, the chair could support my weight without any issue. We'll see if that fix will last or if I'll need to drill out the tenon and insert a new one.<br />
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As the first chair was a success, I decided to attempt a more complicated one:<br />
All tenons were loose, one leg was broken, and a nail went through the mortise wall.<br />
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The easy stuff first, let's glue and clamp the mortise wall. While this was setting, I soaked the broken off piece in the water of the hot hide glue pot for a couple of minutes and started gluing back the joints.<br />
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Quickly add the last bits of glue and clamp it all together. We'll see tomorrow if that worked out ok. Otherwise I'll need to drill out a pocket to insert a reinforcement dowel in the broken leg... Charles Hayward has a nice jig for that in his "Antique Furniture Repairs" book.<br />
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Talking of Charles Hayward... the post office delivered this today while I was at work:<br />
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I'll order the missing Hayward books at the end of the month then start collecting Wearing's books.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3344874586368985321.post-82779551665512437322017-07-23T09:12:00.000-07:002017-07-23T09:49:01.458-07:00More molding planes!So I "accidentally" stopped at the same flea market yesterday morning and it turns out that the seller had another laundry basket of tools for an even lower price!<br />
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The basket contained a lot of molding planes, and as luck would have it... the missing iron from a match plane in the previous basket.<br />
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The following pieces directly caught my eye, so I quickly scrubbed them clean and re-oiled them... cleaning and waxing the posts and threads. It's a sash molding plane, something I have been trying to find locally for the best part of 10 years.<br />
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I really love the whole-profile boxing on the complex part of the molding. However, it is becoming loose and will have to be removed and reset properly. I think I should be able to steam it out, let it dry and glue it back in with hide glue. The posts are also made of boxwood, and the glue has failed through drying.<br />
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There's also one missing screw, I will need to take the mechanism apart to see exactly what screw to get.<br />
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Slightly better view of the boxing coming loose.<br />
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The maker's stamp "GW Denison & Co, Winthrop, Conn". From a quick search:<br />
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Name: Denison & Co., Gilbert Wright<br />
Active: Winthrop, Connecticut 1868-1890<br />
Tool Types: Augers, Bits, Carpenter Tools, and Wood Planes<br />
Identifying Marks: G.W.DENISON&Co./WINTHROP/CONN. (all lines curve upward);
G.W.DENISON&Co/WINTHROP.CONN.; G.W.DENISON/WINTHROP.CONN<br />
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Most of the reseller's stamp has been removed by careless hammering in the past of the plane. I can just read the following "Casse???? Reed & Co"<br />
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Both irons are skewed and in a fairly decent state for their age. The flat one had some pitting on the bevel, so I freehand ground it back past the pitting and re-established a fresh bevel. I still need to work a bit on lapping the back of the complex iron, but it already works<br />
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Post-regrinding of the complex iron, as it wasn't matching the boxing anymore.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3344874586368985321.post-73544180640839796052017-07-08T03:47:00.000-07:002017-07-08T03:47:54.677-07:00Restoring moulding planesTwo weeks ago, I bought a basket of hand planes for pocket change. I have started restoring them this morning, cleaning up the irons, waxing the soles and testing them.<br />
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A couple of planes were missing their wedges, so I thought I'd document how I make replacement wedges for those planes. I was relatively lucky, as I actually had a very similar wedge to copy.<br />
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I start with some riven beech I had stashed away, I then trace the shape from the similar wedge. I saw off the new wedge, clean up with a plane and start working on the finial.<br />
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As it is riven beech, I can simply pare the design off then come back to clean it with a rasp and then a file.<br />
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Almost ready, now it's time to pare off the ramp and start test-fitting the wedge.<br />
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The wedge is in and just needs to drop a few more mm. That's where I get a finely set smoothing plane and adjust the front of the wedge until it fits where I want.</div>
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For Brian :)<br />
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2 thousands of an inch in beech<br />
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1 thousandth of an inch in fir, yesterday when I was testing the plane.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3344874586368985321.post-19649978358764868052015-08-13T12:58:00.001-07:002015-08-13T13:00:10.653-07:00Rebuilding antique chairsLast week, my lovely wife won a set of 4 antique chairs on eBay for pocket change. So we picked them up on Saturday afternoon. They were in serious need of some TLC, the wood was very dry and grey. Unfortunately, I forgot to take "before" pictures.<br />
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I first started by cleaning them all. First with a brush to remove the cobwebs and the surface dust, then I gave them a good scrub with 000 steel wool dipped in linseed oil. That quickly brought them back to a really nice color. A good hour later, I wiped them down with paper towels. That removed all the dust.<br />
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Once they were clean, I moved to the structural damage. One chair was in 5 pieces, one chair needed to have the seat reattached and a third one I am still trying to figure how to repair.<br />
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I cleaned up all the areas that would receive glue on those chairs while a fresh liquid hide glue batch was cooking in my very traditional glue pot.<br />
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As it wasn't that hot, I hurried up reassembling both chairs. I quickly brushed hide glue in the mortises and on the tenons. I fitted all pieces together and firmly clamped them.<br />
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A bit later, I removed the clamps and reattached the seat on the fully rebuilt chair. I still need to clean up traces of previous "repairs" that used large wire nails to attach the seat.<br />
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All in all, not too bad for 8€ and about 1 hour of sweat equity.<br />
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Here they are, with a table from the same vintage and origin. The pairing is totally accidental, as that table was an impulse buy on a flea market that very same morning. The next morning, I added a coat of wax to the chairs and buffed it off.<br />
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There was another piece of furniture included, but it will be the subject of a separate post.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3344874586368985321.post-86822055900199422342014-07-22T12:28:00.000-07:002014-07-22T12:28:47.167-07:00More antique books, cleaning up the rust pile and carving.Last Friday, I received another antique French woodworking book: "L'ÉBÉNISTERIE" by Henry Havard. While it is not on the same scale as Roubo, it was an interesting read. I may try to procure some of the other volumes from that collection. I am now also looking on antique architecture, drawing and carving books.<br />
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The rust pile is rapidly shrinking as I have been pickling antique files in molasses water for a few weeks now. I must say that I am very impressed with the results and I may try it out on a saw plate. As usual, I forgot to take picture of the process... I have rescued a box of antique files and rasps with this method and they do look brand new. While I was in the rust pile, I checked if I had any carving gouges but unfortunately came out empty handed.<br />
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While waiting for season 34 of The Woodwright's Shop, I have been watching (again) the last 7 seasons during my commute... which included quite a few bits on molding and carving, so now I've got a new itch to scratch. I have been doodling acanthus leaves, roses, camelia and vines for a week solid now. It is quite surprising as carving was the medium I enjoyed the least in my art classes... I loved clay, photography and technical drawing but loathed drawing and carving. Tonight, I watched pretty much all of Mary May's videos on <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbn9V_U62LCmxWTiT7DI5eA/videos" target="_blank">youtube</a> and added a pile of related content to my "watch later" list.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0